Caving

Andy & I got all our gear together for a bit of exploration commencing after Andy's football practice. This included headlights, flashlights, cameras, extra batteries, first aid kit etc etc - one never knows what to expect you know.

First of all we set off for Musanze Caves which is about 2km from the centre of Ruhengeri with the entrance located just off the side of a school's football pitch. Arriving there, no indication of where the caves could be but venture toward the further end of the football pitch and you find this huge, lush green depression. On the far side of this depression (at least 15-20m at the deepest point and about 50x30m) there's a natural volcanic bridge - amazing with vegetation growing over the edges, hanging down and partially covering the opening between the bridge and the ground.

The cave is closer to where one parks the vehicle and has a massive entrance. We had established that this had been the site of a massacre during the war in 2004 and people were not encouraged to enter which was also enforced by regular checks by the military. We respected this and were allowed though to enter the immediate entrance area of the cave. Gosh!! Massive is an understatement - width and height and just disappearing into the dark. We didn't spot any bats but the some of the school lads who accompanied us say that at dusk one can see the bats coming out - another day to be set out for that!

From here, we set off to Kinigi Guesthouse for lunch and discuss the plans they had made for us to visit the Kinigi Caves. The manageress told us that she had managed to get hold of the Executive Secretary for the local council who had sent someone to accompany us and also give directions to the caves. After a fantastic lunch we set off with the 4x4, and was I glad we had a 4x4! The road made its way through villages, totally off the beaten track, and at times petered out to little tracks but great stuff. I was thinking that if I enjoy it that much, imagine how the tourists will enjoy it once its set-up as a proper excursion.

The distance was probably only in the region of 3-4km from the Guesthouse but trust me, it took us awhile to get there. Then out of the blue,between some Eucalyptus trees, the manageress and our guide says stop, we've arrived! My reaction was "Oh...?! Ok."

First to our right, we walked/trekked down about 10m in height through thick vegetation, not unlike the vegetation you find when tracking the gorillas. Eventually down there, a cave about 20m long and about the same width and up to 10m high roof with a small exit on the opposite side. While I'm there taking pictures and video, Andy starts chatting to some of the young lads who are telling us how regularly they see leopard going in and out of the caves. One sighting they had, the leopard had abotu 6 youngsters with her! Today though, no leopard.

Apparently one of the older men said that it would be of no use for us to take flashlights as they don't work in those caves. I only found this out when we left but the guy must have had huge surprise when my headtorch DID work! There was no explanation given for this belief but that is what they believe and its not negotiable.

Going up to road level, our guide took us above the exit of the cave we had just been in and you could see the entrance to another cave about 20m further. We didn't go into this but this one is apparently about 2km long until you exit to above ground and a few meters further enter another set. According to the guide and manageress, there are 3 sets of caves like this and believed to join up with the Musanze Caves we had been at earlier today. An estimated trip of 3-4 hours wlaking through the caves.

Community based tourism is on the agenda for these caves with ORTPN, Kinigi Guesthouse and IGCP preparing to train guides to take tourists on excursions through the caves. They do need to regular recces first before taking people in due to the leopards apparently finding these caves irresistable. What a day though!